Chinchillas. What about them?
I get asked most of these questions often throughout our pet store errands and drive-thru runs (Momma usually rides with me lying on my chest). I figured I might as well start an "answers page". There is a lot of information on these critters so this page will be added to continually.
Why did you start breeding?
I made the decision after my husband gave me the ok to. Tilla had gone to the vet for priapism (basically a constant state of hardness). The vet told me to fix the problem we needed to pay the $300 to get him fixed or let him breed. This is where my husband and I got to talking and when we decided to get Momma. Tilla and Momma had Tweak, I needed to find a male for Tweak... Now we are registered, branded and have 8 chins and plans for more as well as another cage to be built!
What is a chinchilla?
Chinchillas are actually rodents. When someone asks me what it is and I tell them, I'm often met with "Oh, it looked like a squirrel or rabbit!" I describe them as a mix, but they are really an animal all their own. Sadly enough, National Geographic and Animal Planet have never done a special on these animals and I have only seen ONE shown briefly on a documentary once (Wild Americas Desert episode). I might have to get on them about that. :) They have long back feet great for jumping and short little forearms just long enough to clean their faces. Their semi-curly tail is bushy with hairs thicker than their bodily fur. Since these are primarily nocturnal (mine are up throughout the day as well) animals, they have large ears for hearing best at night. As with any rodent, they have teeth that never stop growing and CONSTANTLY need something to gnaw on to wear them down. These animals are known for their super soft fur and, oddly enough, for their dust baths. They make absolutely FANTASTIC pets for the fact that they are hypoallergenic and produce no odor themselves like, say, a dog would. Another fun fact? Chinchillas cannot sweat. This is why dust baths and fresh water are so important.
Do chinchillas cause allergies?
No. I see a lot of people claiming that they have developed allergies to their chinchilla. It's either an excuse to get rid of the animal or they simply don't know where their allergies are coming from and it's easiest to blame on the chin. Chinchillas simply don't produce the dander that causes allergies. If you develop problems, first try cutting back on the dust flying everywhere or even the changing the brand of dust you use. Anything you breathe in through your nose aside from pure oxygen has the potential to make your nose tickle. Dust is the first thing. Try using a container with a lid for dust baths. Make sure to never leave your chin in for an extended amount of time and make sure the container has a few holes drilled in the top to allow for fresh air flow. After your chin is done bathing, you can stick your hand in and you can rub the chin loose of excess dust prior to placing back in the cage. Then simply wash your hands! If you are still having issues, specifically with loose fur, you can buy a grooming comb. The Ryersons still sell them, and although they can be expensive ($30 or $35), these are specifically made for chinchilla fur and are generally used for show purposes. You can buy a slicker brush at any pet store for a cheaper alternative but make sure the bristles are plastic tipped to prevent harming your chin. You can also bring your hin by and I can groom it for you for a few dollars if you dont want to invest in the combs.
Where do chinchillas come from?
They come from the Andes Mountains in South America. Information tells you to keep your chinchilla in a cool environment and this is why. The specific area they live in is not only elevated, but also well below the equator. Temperatures in the house need to be kept below 80 degrees F at all times or they run the risk of overheating and dying.
What comes with my chinchilla if I buy it from you?
We will supply you with a pound of food, some hayblocks, some supplement and your chins pedigree. The amount of food is more than sufficient to get your chin adjusted to any new food you plan on buying for it (adjust new/old food amounts like you would for a cat or dog). We offer the best prices in the area for the Mazuri pellets and hay blocks and our supplement is comparable to other breeders prices. We are unable to offer complete chin packages at this time, but we can point you in the right direction for cages and chin toys... take a peek at our Contact and Websites page.
Why dust baths instead of water baths?
Chinchillas lack the ability to sweat and need a way to cool off. Out in the wild chins roll in fine volcanic ash to clean their fur of any dirt and oils that work like insulators and trap in heat and moisture. Their little bodies can only withstand up to 80 degrees F and moisture in their fur will actually cause it to rot. It is very important to offer your chin a bath at least once a month, more if held often. If your chin absolutely NEEDS a water bath, try to refrain from using shampoos. If you have to, use a tiny amount of tear free, unscented baby shampoo and room temperature water. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you dry your chin as soon as possible to prevent fur rot. I understand it is difficult to do this with an active animal. Towel dry the best you can and then use a blow dryer held far enough away to not burn or heat the chin up. If you run out of dust bath and the store is temporarily out, you can use a good, reduced dust kitty litter. It soaks up the oils in the fur just fine and will last until your pet store or dust supplier can get more stock in.
What do we feed it?
Chins have a very specific digestic system built mainly for timothy hay. If you offset the bacteria in their system too much complications willl arise that will require vet care promptly. Pellet form is obviously the best choice because it wears down their teeth a bit as they eat it. A lot of breeders use Kline feed but there are other good choices out there as well. We use Mazuri here, and our chins do well. When it comes to chin feed, buying pellets without treats in them is best. Definitely no food with protein in it!! They are unable to process protein and it will cause impaction and a large vet bill! We also suggest hay blocks. These wear down their teeth great and its a nice way to add variety. If you want to give treats we suggest the sea grass, cholla, willow or apple wood sticks sold at pet stores. Raisins are adored by all chins but contain a lot of sugar and should be given rarely. My chins go nuts over bananas! The greener the better because it has less sugar than a ripe banana. Just a little bit will do and chin kisses will ensue! Mine also like lettuce. Its best to not give too much lettuce because of the water content of it. Too much of it will cause loose stools. It's easily cured by taking away all treats and providing loose hay or hay blocks, but it is still an uncomfortable situation for chins.
Why buy from a breeder?
Oh boy. This is a big question I get often. Pet store chinchillas come from "chinchilla mills". Puppy mills? Yeah. Essentially the same thing. There's a better chance that a smaller, family owned pet stores will buy from a small breeder like myself, but the large chain stores buy from mills. Those chinchillas have every kind of thing wrong with them and those people simply don't care about the animal they're breeding. Malocclusion, missing limbs, animals generally in poor health. Not every animal they have is like that, but those people breed for profit rather than quality. The more they produce, the more they make. It's a sad reality. A chain pet store employee once told me that they receive whatever animal from wherever it is shipped in from. They know nothing about it. The chin sits in a cage with very little socialization until it is sold for being "cute" or "exotic". "Back yard breeder" is a derogatory term for lazy breeders. Ones that don't properly care for their animals, sell for profit only without any regard for the animal. That term applies to breeders of ANY animal. A GOOD breeder will be knowledgeable on not only the breed, but about the animal itself, will take the time to produce quality, socialize and get to know the animal, answer any questions you might have before AND after the sale and not focus on the handling of money. A good breeders chins are not dollar signs. They are living, breathing, needy little critters and are treated as such... especially here! A good breeder will make sure your chin is socialized and will inform you of any quirks before the animal is purchased. Our chins here are not startled by things like the vacuum or our 2 kids. They are handled OFTEN since birth and are severely spoiled every day (it is ridiculous how rotten these animals are here!). It's fine if you want to buy from a pet store, just know what you're getting yourself into. There are genetic diseases that WILL be passed on that may not show until the animal is a bit older. A responsible breeder will never breed an animal known to have such diseases in their genes nor will they breed an "unknown" animal. Take the time to find a good breeder if possible. I hear a lot from people that breeders don't care for their animals properly and that the cages are always a mess. This is not necessarily true. Again, it comes back to a GOOD breeder. Chins poop and pee. It's a well known fact. You can't expect a breeder to clean the cage every day, especially when most of us have jobs, kids, etc. This isn't to say it's an exscuse for not cleaning properly, but don't expect a squeaky clean cage. Expect a normal cage that is reasonably clean. If you can't tell the cage has been cleaned recently or the chin has "wet tail" (really loose stool), then RUN! Here, we have a dedicated shopvac for our chin cage. It takes very little time to clean a cage entirely and is great for sucking up the kicked out bedding and spilled food from their nightly activities. If you plan on investing in or already ahve multiple chins, a shopvac is a fantastic investment to make.
My chin is eating it's own poop!!!!
It happens. And it's ok. It's normal for a chin to eat it, sometimes right as it's coming out! Why do they do this? It's simply because of their diet and the way it's processed. Timothy hay does not get processed all the way so a bunch of nutrients are missed or wasted. "Recycling", as we call it, is just a way for them to get those missed nutrients again. It's not going to harm them, I swear!
What kind of cage should we house it in?
Chinchillas need room to run and jump. Basic wire chinchilla habitats sold at pet stores will do fine, but keep in mind that you have a chewer. Metal also rusts and finding parts to replace the chewed ones can be costly and repetitive and wire bottom cages can cause Bumble foot too (cracked and infected chin feet). I started with a Ferret Nation type cage and my chins completely chewed up the plastic levels in there! It was also a PAIN to move in and out for cleaning. Also keep in mind that smaller chinchillas can escape easily. Really, they may not look like they can squeeze through those just 1 1/4" wide bars but they can!! My very first chinchila escaped the night we brought her home. She squeezed right through those bars and was gone for nearly a day. I cried the entire time until we found her hiding in the desk. We decided it was best to cover her cage with chicken wire until she was big enough to not escape. Pay attention to your wire spacing and try to get cages with solid plastic levels or secure wood shelves in there. If the bottom wire spacing is too far apart it can catch their feet and break them. If at all possible, build one. Ours is made of untreated pine (completely safe for chewing!), and wire mesh. There are plans you can purchase online or you can design one yourself. Stay away from red woods and woods heavy in chemicals or oils. Untreated pine is best. Ours have 3 shelves in each unit to allow them to bounce around to their hearts desire. Some even run completely around the sides. The shelves and bottom trays are cheap and easily replaceable when needed. A picture of our cage can be found under my resident chins tab.
What can we expect from it at night?
Noise! That's what! I can't honestly say that they are a bother to us. The cage is kept in the living/dining room well away from our bedrooms. We don't hear it when we're back here. Our guests on the other hand report them barking, squeaking, chirping and running around and knocking food out of their bowls. With the mess on the floor each morning, it doesn't surprise me. Barking? Yes. They bark, but not like a dog. It's something you have to hear in person becuase it's not easily described. They have a variety of noises they make and barking is one heard most often here. Putting a sheet over their cage like a bird doesn't do anything for them, they still do their thing and nothing is going to stop them. Some chinchillas are noisier than others, but you still need to expect plenty of activity at night. Giving them something to play with at night might help curb their activity a bit. I suggest large PVC tubes to play and hide in or blocks of untreated pine or aspen to chew on. You can find find these as scraps at your local Lowes or Home Depot. They should be able to cut them for you too! We also give our chins empty cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towels to chew on and BOY DO THEY CHEW THEM UP!
Male or female? Which is better?
Depends on YOUR preference really. Personal experience leads me to tell new chin parents to lean toward a female. If it's your first chin, females are easier to deal with. When my husband bought Tilla, he was the only chin we had at the time. After he finaly hit breeding age he required a vet visit because his "thing" wouldn't go back in and it looked awfully painful. Basically, boys require more work with the hair ring checks every so often and girls just do their own thing. No one sex is going to be better than the other personality wise, you just need to interact with it and see how you like it.
Are they all gray or are there different colors?
There are a variety of colors, some more rare than others. The normal color for a chinchilla is gray with a white tummy (standard gray). Color mutations are ebony, chocolate, sapphire, violets, mosaics, pink and whites, tan, and beige. The most common color is gray and the most rare is called a Sullivan Beige (a cross between sapphire and beige). I only know of 2 breeders currently engaged in that project right there and only 1 has produced them so far. The original Sullivan beige herd nearly died out completely because the Sullivans didn't like the veiling on them. Going even further into it there are terms like homogynous, heterozygous and wrap. For example: Momma is a Hetero Ebony, meaning that she is an ebony, but she is not fully black. She is black with a gray tummy. If she were entirely black she would be a homo ebony. Terms like this come down to how the animals colors are presented. This can be explained fully on the mutation colors link under Information & Websites tab.
What kind of supplies are needed?
A cage of course, food (food dishes), something to chew on at all times, fresh water (water bottles), bedding, dust bath are basic necessities. There are large scale breeders that make and sell custom cages, food bins and water dispensers. We have tried the chew proof food bins from PetsMart. Chew proof doesn't mean CHIN proof! We currently use the food crocks. We also suggest using the Super Pet glass water bottles with metal protecting the screw on cap OR the water bottles you can get from the Ryersons (which we use). Chinchillas will chew absolutely anything they can get the teeth on. With glass, you can also sterilize it easily. Feel free to use hammocks and tubes and such, but again, it comes down to chewing. I can't even tell you how many fabric hammocks we've been through here. We like the PVC tubing. Apparenty our chins do as well. If you want to get an exercise wheel, go for one specially designed for a chinchilla (no wire). The Flying Saucer has rave reviews. We do not use them for the fact that they get plenty of exercise jumping level to level and supervised playtime in the hallway. Bedding needs to be either pine or aspen shavings. Absolutely NO cedar or other red woods. Those are high in toxic oils and will cause problems for your small pet. We are iffy on newspaper because of the ink. It also doesn't give them much cushion or absorption.
I have a chin already, can I get another and keep it in the same cage?
Sure, but be prepared for an all out war! Some chins handle a new cage mate better than others, but always be prepared! When doing chin introductions here, we use a show cage put inside the big cage. This way the new chin has time to adjust to new smells but can also avoid attacks from the existing chins. Last I checked these were $6 plus shipping from the Ryersons and can be ordered online through their website (Google Ryersons chinchillas). There are other methods, but this is what works for us. If you don't want to buy a show cage you can try introducing them in a neutral area. Close off a hallway or bathroom and let them interact together... safely. Some mounting is fine for show of dominance but when they start barking and aggressively biting or attacking then you need to seperate them immediately. Give it a few days and try again. If you are still having trouble introducing, shoot me an email and I'll send you the article I have written by a top MCBA breeder. If you can, introduce them at an early age. I believe that young chins do best before they have "developed their own scent". I have never had an issue introducing a kit to several established herd members at once. The older ones do fine with the show cage. A chin likes company whether it be same sex or not, but you can imagine that they would be ecstatic over an opposite sex partner. More on this below...
Chinchilla pregnancy 101.
There is no way of knowing your chin is pregnant until you have either learned the signs of it (well into pregnancy), walk out to brand new kits under mom or get an x-ray. Those are the ONLY definitive ways to tell your chin is going to be a mom. Momma has gotten increasingly good at hiding her pregnancies. Some breeders weigh them weekly and can tell that way, others just let them breed and wait until kits are born, and some look for signs. We are sign lookers here. We know when our chins are in the mood and sometims catch them in the act, but that's no surefire way to tell if the female is actually going to get pregnant. Boys release a waxy plug into the females vagina to hold all his stuff in for a better chance at impregnanting her during heat, and you know what it is when you see it after its come out. Still not a sign of pregnancy. That's just a sign that they've mated. There will usually be clumps of fur around the cage as well. Once a female is pregnant it takes approximately 111 days to litter. If you see them mating or find a plug write down the date. If you find she's pregnant later you have a date to go by and can keep an eye out for her littering. Another way to tell is by weight.If you notice her steadily getting chunkier, check her mammary glands from time to time. They run north and south from under moms armpit. Within a few weeks of littering her nipples will get longer to help the kit find them through all the dense fur. By this time you should plan on the mom littering within the next month. About 2 weeks before littering she will develop milk and you can feel her mammary glands start to swell, I've noticed that Mommas kits generally kick much less around this time but sometimes you're lucky enough to see or feel the kit kicking inside still! Make sure that mom has plenty or rest during this time. Try not to hold her as often as you normally would unless she begs for attention. Holding her often increases the risk of losing the kit(s) by dropping accidentally or her jumping off unexpectedly. Dad can stay in the cage before and after, he won't bother mom or kits, but be aware that mom will go into heat again immediately. We don't encourage breedbacks (breeding again immediately) because mom needs plenty of time to recoop and nurse her current kits. If you choose to breedback, please do it responsibly. Offer her more vitamins and minerals (our supplement is great for this) and don't make it habit every time she litters. If you can seperate them for 10 days, then I suggest it. If this is your first time with a pregnant chin you can expect her to have 1 kit if it's her first litter. I think the highest recorded number is 8, but 1-3 is the norm with twins being more common after the first litter. When mom litters, you will more than likely find the kits out already with very little blood in the cage. If you're lucky enough to catch her in action, leave the lights dimmed or off and let her do her own thing. You'll find her bent over cleaning herself down there until she's ready to pull the kit out. If you're watching and she hasn't gotten a kit out in about an hour then call an exotic certified vet. They generally don't have complications, but it's good to have a vet backup. They tend to litter in the early morning hours be sure to find the placenta and remove it. Chinchillas can't process meat and although a few nibbles for the excellent nutrients is fine, they can't do any more than that. If the kit is still wet when you find it, leave it. Mom or dad needs to clean it and dry it before it gets too cold. Mom will lay over the kit(s) and let them nurse and get up as needed. She won't suffocate the kit, it's fine. It is completely fine to hold the kit, even the day it's born, if mom lets you. She will more than likely follow your hand sniffing and chirping to the kit the entire time. It's just her way of making sure it's ok. We strongly encourage holding the kit at east once every day. This helps to socialize it. Mom will begin to stop nursing the kit around 1.5-2 months old. I suggest selling kits starting at 3 months old but if at a good weight and not nursing anymore, they can go as early as 2 months. If you happen to have a chinchilla that does not take to her kit(s), you can feed them a thin mixture of baby rice cereal and milk from a dropper. Don't prepare a lot, they only do a few drops every few hours. Keep the kit with mom as long as possible to make sure it is kept warm otherwise throw a clean handtowel in the cage for the chin to hide under.
Why the different prices for chinchillas?
Breeder prices differ from pet stores prices due to quality and/ or color factors. I've seen top breeders charge up in the $1000s for a single chin because of it's show or herd improvement capabilities. Most breeders like me don't charge anywhere close to that and the ones that do are REALLY into the business! Our prices a primarily based on color. Our standards usually run from $100-125, mosaics are around $250, hetero ebonies about $200-225. These prices are nearly the same across the board for hobby breeders. Pet stores can charge $150 flat for their chins because they get a flat rate for their chinchilla mill animals and make a killer profit. A lot of work goes into finding a good match for an existing chin. Color, fur quality, traits, etc. For a good breeder it's not just throwing any 2 animals together. There is an art to the genetics and knowing what can and can't go together (google chinchilla lethal factor--serious stuff there!). Breeders like us take the time to find a quality animal, and pay a hefty price for it, too! We have about $3500 invested in our animals alone! All because they are good quality animals from good breeders.
What kind of toys do chinchillas like?
Chinchillas don't necessarily need expensive store bought toys. If you do choose to go all out and spoil your chin it's important to remember they chew and chew a lot. Make sure the toy is safe to chew on (untreated wood, pet safe dyes, etc). We do a lot of cardboard tubes here. It's a nice way to recycle. There are also a few chinchilla websites we know of. Dan and Linda at Simply Chintastic make some of the greatest chin toys I have seen produced! They donated a chin train for raffle at last year's show. Patty at Blue Ribbon Chinchillas makes the most wonderful tubes and hammocks. These are for sale through her website and at shows. TJ's Chinchilla Supplies also sells a great variety of chin toys and necessities. Be sure to check, if you buy from a pet store, that your chin treats do not contain ay corn. Corn is FATAL to chinchillas because they cant process it. I will add a list of chin websites to the Website and Contact page.
What do I need to look for as far as general health?
Things you need to keep an eye on are teeth, hair rings on males, general appearance and activity. Check your chins teeth regularly to make sure they are growingly evenly, aren't overgrown and are yellow. Chinchilla teeth grow constantly and need to wear down constantly as well. If they become overgrown you need to run the vet and have the vet shave them down. This requires anaesthesia and a a good chunk of money. If you're buying from a breeder, its best to have a complete pedigree. This should be the chin, the parents and both sets of grandparent filled out. The more complete the pedigree, the better off you are because there is no guessing when it comes to genetics and hereditary diseases. You want to find a chin that has a good clean coat, good teeth, check for patches of fur missing, it should have nice bright eyes, be active and not lethargic. If you cant see the cage, ask to! Check the poop. The cage should be reasonably clean and the poop pellets, if any are there, should be well formed and not mushy. Remember! A good breeder will always be open to answering questions!
How is breeding chinchillas different from breeding dogs or cats?
Believe it or not, there IS a difference. Ive had plenty of people turn their nose down to me for being a breeder, but what they dont take into account is that breeding chins is not like breeding cats or dogs. Good breeders introduce new genes all the time, therefor there is no limited gene pool like with cat and dog breeds (not mutt "breeds', registered and recognized breeds). A lot of us buy chins from different lines to introduce into our own lines to expand the gene pool and provide additional factors desired for breeding nice animals. Chinchillas are also very rarely found in pet sheleters so there is no issue with shelters being overrun with them. Sure, there are chin rescues, but there are very few of those compared to how many cat and dog shelters and rescues there are. Ive never been able to figure out why people will breed their pit bulls and post them on Craigslist for $300+ when they have no shots, no fixing, no worming, etc and you can get a perfectly healthy pit pup at the shelter that has been fixed and fully vetted for $80. And thats not just pits, thats with any "pure breed" pup (with or without papers), pits are just what I see most often. It is safer and better to buy from a reputable breeder because we breed OUT bad genes and diseases instead of breeding IN that junk.
Why did you start breeding?
I made the decision after my husband gave me the ok to. Tilla had gone to the vet for priapism (basically a constant state of hardness). The vet told me to fix the problem we needed to pay the $300 to get him fixed or let him breed. This is where my husband and I got to talking and when we decided to get Momma. Tilla and Momma had Tweak, I needed to find a male for Tweak... Now we are registered, branded and have 8 chins and plans for more as well as another cage to be built!
What is a chinchilla?
Chinchillas are actually rodents. When someone asks me what it is and I tell them, I'm often met with "Oh, it looked like a squirrel or rabbit!" I describe them as a mix, but they are really an animal all their own. Sadly enough, National Geographic and Animal Planet have never done a special on these animals and I have only seen ONE shown briefly on a documentary once (Wild Americas Desert episode). I might have to get on them about that. :) They have long back feet great for jumping and short little forearms just long enough to clean their faces. Their semi-curly tail is bushy with hairs thicker than their bodily fur. Since these are primarily nocturnal (mine are up throughout the day as well) animals, they have large ears for hearing best at night. As with any rodent, they have teeth that never stop growing and CONSTANTLY need something to gnaw on to wear them down. These animals are known for their super soft fur and, oddly enough, for their dust baths. They make absolutely FANTASTIC pets for the fact that they are hypoallergenic and produce no odor themselves like, say, a dog would. Another fun fact? Chinchillas cannot sweat. This is why dust baths and fresh water are so important.
Do chinchillas cause allergies?
No. I see a lot of people claiming that they have developed allergies to their chinchilla. It's either an excuse to get rid of the animal or they simply don't know where their allergies are coming from and it's easiest to blame on the chin. Chinchillas simply don't produce the dander that causes allergies. If you develop problems, first try cutting back on the dust flying everywhere or even the changing the brand of dust you use. Anything you breathe in through your nose aside from pure oxygen has the potential to make your nose tickle. Dust is the first thing. Try using a container with a lid for dust baths. Make sure to never leave your chin in for an extended amount of time and make sure the container has a few holes drilled in the top to allow for fresh air flow. After your chin is done bathing, you can stick your hand in and you can rub the chin loose of excess dust prior to placing back in the cage. Then simply wash your hands! If you are still having issues, specifically with loose fur, you can buy a grooming comb. The Ryersons still sell them, and although they can be expensive ($30 or $35), these are specifically made for chinchilla fur and are generally used for show purposes. You can buy a slicker brush at any pet store for a cheaper alternative but make sure the bristles are plastic tipped to prevent harming your chin. You can also bring your hin by and I can groom it for you for a few dollars if you dont want to invest in the combs.
Where do chinchillas come from?
They come from the Andes Mountains in South America. Information tells you to keep your chinchilla in a cool environment and this is why. The specific area they live in is not only elevated, but also well below the equator. Temperatures in the house need to be kept below 80 degrees F at all times or they run the risk of overheating and dying.
What comes with my chinchilla if I buy it from you?
We will supply you with a pound of food, some hayblocks, some supplement and your chins pedigree. The amount of food is more than sufficient to get your chin adjusted to any new food you plan on buying for it (adjust new/old food amounts like you would for a cat or dog). We offer the best prices in the area for the Mazuri pellets and hay blocks and our supplement is comparable to other breeders prices. We are unable to offer complete chin packages at this time, but we can point you in the right direction for cages and chin toys... take a peek at our Contact and Websites page.
Why dust baths instead of water baths?
Chinchillas lack the ability to sweat and need a way to cool off. Out in the wild chins roll in fine volcanic ash to clean their fur of any dirt and oils that work like insulators and trap in heat and moisture. Their little bodies can only withstand up to 80 degrees F and moisture in their fur will actually cause it to rot. It is very important to offer your chin a bath at least once a month, more if held often. If your chin absolutely NEEDS a water bath, try to refrain from using shampoos. If you have to, use a tiny amount of tear free, unscented baby shampoo and room temperature water. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you dry your chin as soon as possible to prevent fur rot. I understand it is difficult to do this with an active animal. Towel dry the best you can and then use a blow dryer held far enough away to not burn or heat the chin up. If you run out of dust bath and the store is temporarily out, you can use a good, reduced dust kitty litter. It soaks up the oils in the fur just fine and will last until your pet store or dust supplier can get more stock in.
What do we feed it?
Chins have a very specific digestic system built mainly for timothy hay. If you offset the bacteria in their system too much complications willl arise that will require vet care promptly. Pellet form is obviously the best choice because it wears down their teeth a bit as they eat it. A lot of breeders use Kline feed but there are other good choices out there as well. We use Mazuri here, and our chins do well. When it comes to chin feed, buying pellets without treats in them is best. Definitely no food with protein in it!! They are unable to process protein and it will cause impaction and a large vet bill! We also suggest hay blocks. These wear down their teeth great and its a nice way to add variety. If you want to give treats we suggest the sea grass, cholla, willow or apple wood sticks sold at pet stores. Raisins are adored by all chins but contain a lot of sugar and should be given rarely. My chins go nuts over bananas! The greener the better because it has less sugar than a ripe banana. Just a little bit will do and chin kisses will ensue! Mine also like lettuce. Its best to not give too much lettuce because of the water content of it. Too much of it will cause loose stools. It's easily cured by taking away all treats and providing loose hay or hay blocks, but it is still an uncomfortable situation for chins.
Why buy from a breeder?
Oh boy. This is a big question I get often. Pet store chinchillas come from "chinchilla mills". Puppy mills? Yeah. Essentially the same thing. There's a better chance that a smaller, family owned pet stores will buy from a small breeder like myself, but the large chain stores buy from mills. Those chinchillas have every kind of thing wrong with them and those people simply don't care about the animal they're breeding. Malocclusion, missing limbs, animals generally in poor health. Not every animal they have is like that, but those people breed for profit rather than quality. The more they produce, the more they make. It's a sad reality. A chain pet store employee once told me that they receive whatever animal from wherever it is shipped in from. They know nothing about it. The chin sits in a cage with very little socialization until it is sold for being "cute" or "exotic". "Back yard breeder" is a derogatory term for lazy breeders. Ones that don't properly care for their animals, sell for profit only without any regard for the animal. That term applies to breeders of ANY animal. A GOOD breeder will be knowledgeable on not only the breed, but about the animal itself, will take the time to produce quality, socialize and get to know the animal, answer any questions you might have before AND after the sale and not focus on the handling of money. A good breeders chins are not dollar signs. They are living, breathing, needy little critters and are treated as such... especially here! A good breeder will make sure your chin is socialized and will inform you of any quirks before the animal is purchased. Our chins here are not startled by things like the vacuum or our 2 kids. They are handled OFTEN since birth and are severely spoiled every day (it is ridiculous how rotten these animals are here!). It's fine if you want to buy from a pet store, just know what you're getting yourself into. There are genetic diseases that WILL be passed on that may not show until the animal is a bit older. A responsible breeder will never breed an animal known to have such diseases in their genes nor will they breed an "unknown" animal. Take the time to find a good breeder if possible. I hear a lot from people that breeders don't care for their animals properly and that the cages are always a mess. This is not necessarily true. Again, it comes back to a GOOD breeder. Chins poop and pee. It's a well known fact. You can't expect a breeder to clean the cage every day, especially when most of us have jobs, kids, etc. This isn't to say it's an exscuse for not cleaning properly, but don't expect a squeaky clean cage. Expect a normal cage that is reasonably clean. If you can't tell the cage has been cleaned recently or the chin has "wet tail" (really loose stool), then RUN! Here, we have a dedicated shopvac for our chin cage. It takes very little time to clean a cage entirely and is great for sucking up the kicked out bedding and spilled food from their nightly activities. If you plan on investing in or already ahve multiple chins, a shopvac is a fantastic investment to make.
My chin is eating it's own poop!!!!
It happens. And it's ok. It's normal for a chin to eat it, sometimes right as it's coming out! Why do they do this? It's simply because of their diet and the way it's processed. Timothy hay does not get processed all the way so a bunch of nutrients are missed or wasted. "Recycling", as we call it, is just a way for them to get those missed nutrients again. It's not going to harm them, I swear!
What kind of cage should we house it in?
Chinchillas need room to run and jump. Basic wire chinchilla habitats sold at pet stores will do fine, but keep in mind that you have a chewer. Metal also rusts and finding parts to replace the chewed ones can be costly and repetitive and wire bottom cages can cause Bumble foot too (cracked and infected chin feet). I started with a Ferret Nation type cage and my chins completely chewed up the plastic levels in there! It was also a PAIN to move in and out for cleaning. Also keep in mind that smaller chinchillas can escape easily. Really, they may not look like they can squeeze through those just 1 1/4" wide bars but they can!! My very first chinchila escaped the night we brought her home. She squeezed right through those bars and was gone for nearly a day. I cried the entire time until we found her hiding in the desk. We decided it was best to cover her cage with chicken wire until she was big enough to not escape. Pay attention to your wire spacing and try to get cages with solid plastic levels or secure wood shelves in there. If the bottom wire spacing is too far apart it can catch their feet and break them. If at all possible, build one. Ours is made of untreated pine (completely safe for chewing!), and wire mesh. There are plans you can purchase online or you can design one yourself. Stay away from red woods and woods heavy in chemicals or oils. Untreated pine is best. Ours have 3 shelves in each unit to allow them to bounce around to their hearts desire. Some even run completely around the sides. The shelves and bottom trays are cheap and easily replaceable when needed. A picture of our cage can be found under my resident chins tab.
What can we expect from it at night?
Noise! That's what! I can't honestly say that they are a bother to us. The cage is kept in the living/dining room well away from our bedrooms. We don't hear it when we're back here. Our guests on the other hand report them barking, squeaking, chirping and running around and knocking food out of their bowls. With the mess on the floor each morning, it doesn't surprise me. Barking? Yes. They bark, but not like a dog. It's something you have to hear in person becuase it's not easily described. They have a variety of noises they make and barking is one heard most often here. Putting a sheet over their cage like a bird doesn't do anything for them, they still do their thing and nothing is going to stop them. Some chinchillas are noisier than others, but you still need to expect plenty of activity at night. Giving them something to play with at night might help curb their activity a bit. I suggest large PVC tubes to play and hide in or blocks of untreated pine or aspen to chew on. You can find find these as scraps at your local Lowes or Home Depot. They should be able to cut them for you too! We also give our chins empty cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towels to chew on and BOY DO THEY CHEW THEM UP!
Male or female? Which is better?
Depends on YOUR preference really. Personal experience leads me to tell new chin parents to lean toward a female. If it's your first chin, females are easier to deal with. When my husband bought Tilla, he was the only chin we had at the time. After he finaly hit breeding age he required a vet visit because his "thing" wouldn't go back in and it looked awfully painful. Basically, boys require more work with the hair ring checks every so often and girls just do their own thing. No one sex is going to be better than the other personality wise, you just need to interact with it and see how you like it.
Are they all gray or are there different colors?
There are a variety of colors, some more rare than others. The normal color for a chinchilla is gray with a white tummy (standard gray). Color mutations are ebony, chocolate, sapphire, violets, mosaics, pink and whites, tan, and beige. The most common color is gray and the most rare is called a Sullivan Beige (a cross between sapphire and beige). I only know of 2 breeders currently engaged in that project right there and only 1 has produced them so far. The original Sullivan beige herd nearly died out completely because the Sullivans didn't like the veiling on them. Going even further into it there are terms like homogynous, heterozygous and wrap. For example: Momma is a Hetero Ebony, meaning that she is an ebony, but she is not fully black. She is black with a gray tummy. If she were entirely black she would be a homo ebony. Terms like this come down to how the animals colors are presented. This can be explained fully on the mutation colors link under Information & Websites tab.
What kind of supplies are needed?
A cage of course, food (food dishes), something to chew on at all times, fresh water (water bottles), bedding, dust bath are basic necessities. There are large scale breeders that make and sell custom cages, food bins and water dispensers. We have tried the chew proof food bins from PetsMart. Chew proof doesn't mean CHIN proof! We currently use the food crocks. We also suggest using the Super Pet glass water bottles with metal protecting the screw on cap OR the water bottles you can get from the Ryersons (which we use). Chinchillas will chew absolutely anything they can get the teeth on. With glass, you can also sterilize it easily. Feel free to use hammocks and tubes and such, but again, it comes down to chewing. I can't even tell you how many fabric hammocks we've been through here. We like the PVC tubing. Apparenty our chins do as well. If you want to get an exercise wheel, go for one specially designed for a chinchilla (no wire). The Flying Saucer has rave reviews. We do not use them for the fact that they get plenty of exercise jumping level to level and supervised playtime in the hallway. Bedding needs to be either pine or aspen shavings. Absolutely NO cedar or other red woods. Those are high in toxic oils and will cause problems for your small pet. We are iffy on newspaper because of the ink. It also doesn't give them much cushion or absorption.
I have a chin already, can I get another and keep it in the same cage?
Sure, but be prepared for an all out war! Some chins handle a new cage mate better than others, but always be prepared! When doing chin introductions here, we use a show cage put inside the big cage. This way the new chin has time to adjust to new smells but can also avoid attacks from the existing chins. Last I checked these were $6 plus shipping from the Ryersons and can be ordered online through their website (Google Ryersons chinchillas). There are other methods, but this is what works for us. If you don't want to buy a show cage you can try introducing them in a neutral area. Close off a hallway or bathroom and let them interact together... safely. Some mounting is fine for show of dominance but when they start barking and aggressively biting or attacking then you need to seperate them immediately. Give it a few days and try again. If you are still having trouble introducing, shoot me an email and I'll send you the article I have written by a top MCBA breeder. If you can, introduce them at an early age. I believe that young chins do best before they have "developed their own scent". I have never had an issue introducing a kit to several established herd members at once. The older ones do fine with the show cage. A chin likes company whether it be same sex or not, but you can imagine that they would be ecstatic over an opposite sex partner. More on this below...
Chinchilla pregnancy 101.
There is no way of knowing your chin is pregnant until you have either learned the signs of it (well into pregnancy), walk out to brand new kits under mom or get an x-ray. Those are the ONLY definitive ways to tell your chin is going to be a mom. Momma has gotten increasingly good at hiding her pregnancies. Some breeders weigh them weekly and can tell that way, others just let them breed and wait until kits are born, and some look for signs. We are sign lookers here. We know when our chins are in the mood and sometims catch them in the act, but that's no surefire way to tell if the female is actually going to get pregnant. Boys release a waxy plug into the females vagina to hold all his stuff in for a better chance at impregnanting her during heat, and you know what it is when you see it after its come out. Still not a sign of pregnancy. That's just a sign that they've mated. There will usually be clumps of fur around the cage as well. Once a female is pregnant it takes approximately 111 days to litter. If you see them mating or find a plug write down the date. If you find she's pregnant later you have a date to go by and can keep an eye out for her littering. Another way to tell is by weight.If you notice her steadily getting chunkier, check her mammary glands from time to time. They run north and south from under moms armpit. Within a few weeks of littering her nipples will get longer to help the kit find them through all the dense fur. By this time you should plan on the mom littering within the next month. About 2 weeks before littering she will develop milk and you can feel her mammary glands start to swell, I've noticed that Mommas kits generally kick much less around this time but sometimes you're lucky enough to see or feel the kit kicking inside still! Make sure that mom has plenty or rest during this time. Try not to hold her as often as you normally would unless she begs for attention. Holding her often increases the risk of losing the kit(s) by dropping accidentally or her jumping off unexpectedly. Dad can stay in the cage before and after, he won't bother mom or kits, but be aware that mom will go into heat again immediately. We don't encourage breedbacks (breeding again immediately) because mom needs plenty of time to recoop and nurse her current kits. If you choose to breedback, please do it responsibly. Offer her more vitamins and minerals (our supplement is great for this) and don't make it habit every time she litters. If you can seperate them for 10 days, then I suggest it. If this is your first time with a pregnant chin you can expect her to have 1 kit if it's her first litter. I think the highest recorded number is 8, but 1-3 is the norm with twins being more common after the first litter. When mom litters, you will more than likely find the kits out already with very little blood in the cage. If you're lucky enough to catch her in action, leave the lights dimmed or off and let her do her own thing. You'll find her bent over cleaning herself down there until she's ready to pull the kit out. If you're watching and she hasn't gotten a kit out in about an hour then call an exotic certified vet. They generally don't have complications, but it's good to have a vet backup. They tend to litter in the early morning hours be sure to find the placenta and remove it. Chinchillas can't process meat and although a few nibbles for the excellent nutrients is fine, they can't do any more than that. If the kit is still wet when you find it, leave it. Mom or dad needs to clean it and dry it before it gets too cold. Mom will lay over the kit(s) and let them nurse and get up as needed. She won't suffocate the kit, it's fine. It is completely fine to hold the kit, even the day it's born, if mom lets you. She will more than likely follow your hand sniffing and chirping to the kit the entire time. It's just her way of making sure it's ok. We strongly encourage holding the kit at east once every day. This helps to socialize it. Mom will begin to stop nursing the kit around 1.5-2 months old. I suggest selling kits starting at 3 months old but if at a good weight and not nursing anymore, they can go as early as 2 months. If you happen to have a chinchilla that does not take to her kit(s), you can feed them a thin mixture of baby rice cereal and milk from a dropper. Don't prepare a lot, they only do a few drops every few hours. Keep the kit with mom as long as possible to make sure it is kept warm otherwise throw a clean handtowel in the cage for the chin to hide under.
Why the different prices for chinchillas?
Breeder prices differ from pet stores prices due to quality and/ or color factors. I've seen top breeders charge up in the $1000s for a single chin because of it's show or herd improvement capabilities. Most breeders like me don't charge anywhere close to that and the ones that do are REALLY into the business! Our prices a primarily based on color. Our standards usually run from $100-125, mosaics are around $250, hetero ebonies about $200-225. These prices are nearly the same across the board for hobby breeders. Pet stores can charge $150 flat for their chins because they get a flat rate for their chinchilla mill animals and make a killer profit. A lot of work goes into finding a good match for an existing chin. Color, fur quality, traits, etc. For a good breeder it's not just throwing any 2 animals together. There is an art to the genetics and knowing what can and can't go together (google chinchilla lethal factor--serious stuff there!). Breeders like us take the time to find a quality animal, and pay a hefty price for it, too! We have about $3500 invested in our animals alone! All because they are good quality animals from good breeders.
What kind of toys do chinchillas like?
Chinchillas don't necessarily need expensive store bought toys. If you do choose to go all out and spoil your chin it's important to remember they chew and chew a lot. Make sure the toy is safe to chew on (untreated wood, pet safe dyes, etc). We do a lot of cardboard tubes here. It's a nice way to recycle. There are also a few chinchilla websites we know of. Dan and Linda at Simply Chintastic make some of the greatest chin toys I have seen produced! They donated a chin train for raffle at last year's show. Patty at Blue Ribbon Chinchillas makes the most wonderful tubes and hammocks. These are for sale through her website and at shows. TJ's Chinchilla Supplies also sells a great variety of chin toys and necessities. Be sure to check, if you buy from a pet store, that your chin treats do not contain ay corn. Corn is FATAL to chinchillas because they cant process it. I will add a list of chin websites to the Website and Contact page.
What do I need to look for as far as general health?
Things you need to keep an eye on are teeth, hair rings on males, general appearance and activity. Check your chins teeth regularly to make sure they are growingly evenly, aren't overgrown and are yellow. Chinchilla teeth grow constantly and need to wear down constantly as well. If they become overgrown you need to run the vet and have the vet shave them down. This requires anaesthesia and a a good chunk of money. If you're buying from a breeder, its best to have a complete pedigree. This should be the chin, the parents and both sets of grandparent filled out. The more complete the pedigree, the better off you are because there is no guessing when it comes to genetics and hereditary diseases. You want to find a chin that has a good clean coat, good teeth, check for patches of fur missing, it should have nice bright eyes, be active and not lethargic. If you cant see the cage, ask to! Check the poop. The cage should be reasonably clean and the poop pellets, if any are there, should be well formed and not mushy. Remember! A good breeder will always be open to answering questions!
How is breeding chinchillas different from breeding dogs or cats?
Believe it or not, there IS a difference. Ive had plenty of people turn their nose down to me for being a breeder, but what they dont take into account is that breeding chins is not like breeding cats or dogs. Good breeders introduce new genes all the time, therefor there is no limited gene pool like with cat and dog breeds (not mutt "breeds', registered and recognized breeds). A lot of us buy chins from different lines to introduce into our own lines to expand the gene pool and provide additional factors desired for breeding nice animals. Chinchillas are also very rarely found in pet sheleters so there is no issue with shelters being overrun with them. Sure, there are chin rescues, but there are very few of those compared to how many cat and dog shelters and rescues there are. Ive never been able to figure out why people will breed their pit bulls and post them on Craigslist for $300+ when they have no shots, no fixing, no worming, etc and you can get a perfectly healthy pit pup at the shelter that has been fixed and fully vetted for $80. And thats not just pits, thats with any "pure breed" pup (with or without papers), pits are just what I see most often. It is safer and better to buy from a reputable breeder because we breed OUT bad genes and diseases instead of breeding IN that junk.